It is pitch dark. The only thing that I can see is in the cone of light from my headlamp, as I descend on scree, my breath condensing into a visible mist. I don’t know where my destination is, but I trust my instincts. I am alone, tired, my legs are shaking, and this steep slope doesn’t seem to end. But stopping is not an option. After ten minutes of nerve wracking downhill, I find the “Goat Village” board, which fills me with relief. I jog the rest of the way, my aches notwithstanding, to get to the warmth and safety of a covered roof.

Solo traveling and trekking gives me a pleasure beyond measure. I seek it out from time to time. It is my idea of detoxification, of both mind and body. It’s not the thrill and adventure I seek, but the calm and quiet.

The trip was impromptu, with my brother driving down in his car to Mussoorie with his wife, daughter, and me from Ghaziabad on a long weekend (thank Lord Shiva!). I have been to Dehradun a few times, but never really explored around it. So this was an opportunity to explore this hill town with a lot of history nestled in the Shivalik range of Himalaya. We checked in to Hotel Himalaya Castle, a dwelling from mid nineteenth century, with a lovely view of the hills. The best way to explore a town is on foot, and I did so by walking around Mall Road, Landour and towards Woodstock School, in the evening.

On Sunday, my brother and I parted ways. He was driving back to Delhi, while I had a one day hike to Nag Tibba in mind. I had heard a lot about it, and did not want to miss the chance when I was so close. I got into a state transport bus, which dropped me in Nainbagh at nine in the morning. From there, I had to wait a while to get a taxi. Finally, paid four hundred rupees to book a Bolero jeep, to get me to Pantwari, the village near Nag Tibba. I wasted no time, and hit the trail. I was carrying all my gear – tent, sleeping bag, clothes, food for two days and five litres of water. I even had a tripod, and two cameras, with a zoom lens! In hindsight, I didn’t need to carry much of it.

The entire trek to Nag Tibba is a climb, as you gain fifteen hundred metres in a nine odd kilometre walk. There is no respite in the entire trek, as you continue ascending along a ridge. People do it in two days, when they do it with a group. I wanted to finish it in a day, for I had a return ticket to Delhi on Monday night. The weight of my sack, and the sapping sun made it tougher. I started at around eleven, and reached The Goat Village, which is about four kilometres from Pantwari, at half past one. I was supposed to stay here for the night, but because of poor phone connectivity I wasn’t able to get a confirmation. I decided not to take a chance, and carried my gear. This I was glad to dump here, and continue up towards the summit.

After Goat Village, the climb is steeper. I started at quarter to two, and could already see people coming down. The break had given me a new life, and with my load lighter, I made it to the Nag Tibba temple by quarter to four. A beautiful campsite greets you here. It was teeming with people - a college group from Delhi was camping there. Some of them were heading up, and I followed them. I was out of steam by now, and the only thing driving me on was the satisfaction of finishing something I started. After what felt like eternity, but was only two hours of hard hike, I was at the top, with the flag fluttering in the evening breeze. The college students were having fun in the little snow that was remaining there. I spent a half hour clicking pictures, and getting warm. I couldn’t wait for sunset. It would be difficult walking this steep section in the dark. Going downhill was a relief, and I was down to the temple in no time. I continued onward, all on my own, as dusk turned to darkness. The forest was quiet, and I could hear my breathing, feel the weight of my steps, the beat of my heart.

I was at the goat village at half past seven, with the last hour of descent in complete dark. My gracious hosts served me hot water, local ragi cookies and vegetable soup, all of which I gobbled down. I hadn’t had a proper meal since morning, and I was famished. Dinner was delicious, mutton curry and Harsil Rajma (local kidney beans) served with red rice and ragi roti. Over dinner I heard the owner’s vision and his story. They are doing some good work there, sourcing the farm produce, packaging and selling it as Bakri Chap product. I bought some of it from their local collection centre next day. That evening though, my mind was occupied with thoughts of a cosy bed to rest my aches.

I was lazy the next morning, reluctant to leave. The hike down with Rupesh – the owner, and his family was simple. I got lucky, and got a direct taxi from Pantwari to Dehradun. As our car moved from the mountains to the plains of Dehradun, the heartache for the mountains had already begun. Till next time my love!

Trek Details: